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Meat - A Perfect Brisket |
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| | Proust had his Madeleine , that famous little tea cake, to awaken memories of times past. I have my brisket sandwich. | | When I left Baltimore for sleep-away camp for the first time, my mother decided that her skinny 10-year-old needed a substantial lunch for the long train ride. En route to the B & O Station, we stopped at Nate's and Leon's Delicatessen on North Avenue. Mother double-parked, and I waited in the car while she dashed in and reappeared swiftly, bearing a brown paper bag. | | In it, wrapped in butchers' paper, was a hefty sandwich of tender, succulent, slightly fat, brisket on crusty, freshly sliced caraway rye . The juices from the still-warm meat moistened the bread, releasing its irresistible aromas and flavors. My sandwich and I were the envy, if not of all the other girls, surely of all the counselors. | | That brisket was a classic: no tomatoes , no chili sauce , no nonsense. What the great French gourmand Curnonsky said about food applies, however cross-culturally, to this dish: Cuisine is when foods taste like themselves." | | So |
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